Kalash, Pakistan

Overview

Northern Pakistan, to the Kalash villages

This episode of "Travelling" follows the NGO "Greek Volunteers" in Pakistan. Departing from Peshawar, Maya Tsoclis crosses the Northwest Frontier Province, which, together with north Baluchistan and Southern Afghanistan form the land of the traditionally proud and war-like ethnic group, the Pashtuns. After an eventful journey through the Hindu Kush Mountains, the team manages to "conquer" the snowy Lovari Pass, at an altitude of 3.318 meters and arrive in the remote town of Chitral. The region has always been a strategic passage for the conquerors of Southeast Asia: Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, Tamerlane. In a short distance and close to the Afghani border, there live a die-hard people. In their three valleys, their geographical isolation being their only weapon of defense, the Kalash, the only non-muslim tribe, with a population of no more than 3.000 souls, manages to preserve religion, social mores and culture, against all odds and against the islamisation policies. "Travelling" meets with these unique people as they prepare for the celebration of their most important festival, Joshi.

Joshi, the spring festival of the Kalash tribe

At first, when we were told that, according to tradition, they are the descendants of Alexander the Great's army, we saw them as distant relatives. Is it myth or fact? It turned out that the appeal of the contemporary reality of the Kalash, who populate three remote valleys of northern Pakistan, is so strong that their distant past is of no significance at all.

"Travelling" and Maya Tsoclis were fortunate enough to attend the biggest festival of this tribe, these people who resist - despite bleak predictions - and preserve their social mores and religion. Joshi, the spring festival, reveals to us the Weltanschauung of this tribe of farmers and stock breeders and takes us for a ride through a living, fairy-tale tradition, complete with gods and nymphs, purifying baths and perpetual rituals. It introduces us to a different world, where our rational, western minds find difficult to accept, thus losing a part of the magic… It reminds us of the fragility of things and the respect we owe to a truth which seems unfamiliar and hard to comprehend.

Kalash, the infidels of the Hindu Kush

At first, when we were told that, according to tradition, they are the descendants of Alexander the Great's army, we saw them as distant relatives, as we are Greeks. Is it myth or fact? It turned out that the appeal of the contemporary reality of the Kalash, who populate three remote valleys of northern Pakistan, is so strong that their distant past is of no significance at all.

At first, when we were told that, according to tradition, they are the descendants of Alexander the Great's army, we saw them as distant relatives, as we are Greeks. Is it myth or fact? It turned out that the appeal of the contemporary reality of the Kalash, who populate three remote valleys of northern Pakistan, is so strong that their distant past is of no significance at all.

Journalist and traveler Maya Tsoklis follows the non-governmental organization "Greek Volunteers" in Pakistan. Departing from Peshawar, the team crosses the Northwest Frontier Province, which, together with north Baluchistan and Southern Afghanistan form the land of the traditionally proud and warlike ethnic group, the Pashtuns. After an eventful journey through the Hindu Kush Mountains, the team manages to "conquer" the snowy Lovari Pass, at an altitude of 3.318 meters and arrive in the remote town of Chitral. The region has always been a strategic passage for the conquerors of Southeast Asia: Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, Tamerlane. In a short distance and close to the Afghani border, there live a die-hard people. In their three valleys, their geographical isolation being their only weapon of defense, the Kalash, the only non-muslim tribe, with a population of no more than 3.000 souls, manages to preserve religion, social mores and culture, against all odds and against the islamisation policies.

Spring has come in the valleys and the locals are celebrating the festival of Joshi. We follow their steps and get introduced to the world view of this tribe of farmers and stock breeders, who take us for a ride through a living, fairy-tale tradition, complete with gods and nymphs, purifying baths and perpetual rituals. We meet the women community; we get in touch with a different reality, one which our rational, western minds find difficult to accept, thus losing a part of the magic. It reminds us of the fragility of things and the respect we owe to a truth which seems unfamiliar and hard to comprehend.